Author: pedropierre

  • Digital photography, where is noise coming from?

    Digital photography, where is noise coming from?

    Source: Adobe Stock

    I first published this article many years ago on a personal blog site I used to have. Since then, it was lost after deleting the site, rediscovered in a backup, and now corrected and updated. This article is not intending to provide a deep technological explanation of how sensors work. I deliberately simplified some concepts for the purpose of explaining where, and why, digital noise is created. With this in mind, here’s the second life of:

    Where is noise coming from?

    Since the beginning of digital photography, noise has been a hotly debated topic. Some of us love it and incorporate it as another art tool. Many, though, can’t stand a single pixel of noise.

    Today I’ll write about the most common sources of digital noise and what we can do about it. I’ll discuss some noise-related concepts, the sensor, ISO settings, and dynamic range.

    What is noise?

    In electronics, noise refers to a circuit’s random base electronic signal or voltage. This signal is a characteristic of every electronic component. The origins of this noise are beyond the scope of this article, but if you want to read about it, go to this Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise_(electronics).

    CMOS sensors, basic concept

    We’ll start by looking at how cameras capture light and convert it into photography and how it relates to noise. Today’s cameras use CMOS sensors, which contain extensive arrays of transistors, each composed of a photodiode and amplifier. I’m oversimplifying here, but it works for what I’m going to explain. The photodiodes accumulate electrical charge when exposed to light, and that charge is then amplified and transmitted further as electrical signals.

    In this diagram, the switch represents the shutter mechanism of the camera. When we press the shutter, the switch is open together with the shutter, causing the photodiode to accumulate electrical charge. The switch closes when we release the shutter, and all the electrical charge gets dumped into the circuit.

    As with any circuit made of a large number of components (10s of millions in today’s CMOS sensors), there will be unavoidable fluctuations in the performance. These minor differences in performance result in noise in the output image. To overcome this problem, manufacturers have developed several solutions. One of them is to include noise reduction mechanisms after the photodiode and another after the Analog to Digital conversion. For example, Canon developed on-chip technology that records the noise of each pixel before exposure and automatically subtracts such noise from the image when storing it.

    Here’s a detailed high-level diagram of how a CMOS sensor captures and converts light to a digital signal.

    Note: this is simplified to explain the basic components of capturing and converting light into electrical signals. Today’s sensors are much more advanced, using stack and backside illuminated technologies.

    In this image, the photodiodes are represented in their internal construction, “p” and “n” sides, each capturing the positive and negative charges, respectively. In the end, the digital signal output is sent to the manufacturer’s CPU (Digic on Canon, Bionz on Sony and Expeed on Nikon, to name some).

    To highlight the complexity of these sensors, in a 40M pixel sensor, the diagram shown above will be repeated 40 million times.

    Dynamic range

    As explained above, a photodiode captures light generating an electrical charge. The more light it receives, the more charge it collects and the higher output voltage it produces. We also know that all circuits, like CMOS sensors, have a floor noise level.

    When we capture more light, the output voltage will be magnitudes larger than the circuit floor noise level. As a result, the noise becomes negligible.

    If we expose the photodiode long enough, eventually, we’ll reach its maximum capacity. After this point, the photodiode will no longer be able to capture light. In photography, when this happens, we call it “blowing out the highlights.”

    On the other hand, if we collect less light creating less charge and lower voltage we’ll end up with an output voltage closer to the floor noise level. If the available light is low enough, the voltage generated will be close to the noise level, making it impossible to differentiate between image and noise.

    The range between the minimum and maximum charge a photodiode can operate is also known as the Dynamic Range. Dynamic Range is a sensor characteristic defined by the physical size of each photodiode, between other aspects.

    We can calculate dynamic range by dividing the number of photons it can hold before overflowing and the minimum measurable light intensity.

    The graph above represents an exposure showing the relation of the signal to noise level and the maximum charge of the photodiode. It is essential to mention that the accumulation of photons has a linear behaviour. For simplicity’s sake, the noise level is represented here as linear but has a slight variation over time.

    How this relates to noise? If we have a sensor with a high dynamic range, we can store more electrical charge, for a longer time, before overflowing, allowing the dark parts to capture more electrical charge. While a small dynamic range, we will reach the overflow point faster, reducing the time to capture the shadows. Dynamic range is more visible in scenes with low light or high contrast.

    The photodiode’s capacity to store charge is directly related to its physical size. A larger photodiode will have a better dynamic range. Although with today’s technology, a smaller APS-C sensor with the same number of pixels can perform almost identically to a full-frame sensor. But the full-frame sensor still has an advantage in low-light performance.

    ISO

    In modern digital cameras, ISO controls the sensor’s sensitivity through the amplification stage within each pixel. In simple words, when we start increasing the ISO, we are turning up the “volume” of the sensor. The analogy of sound volume fits here because we are increasing the gain or signal level between input and output. This is known as amplification. The benefit of doing this is that a weak external signal gets amplified enough to make it usable. However, it will also increase the floor noise level.

    And this happens because the relation of signal vs. the floor noise level remains the same. By amplifying the signal, we increase signal and floor noise levels making noise more visible. The result is an image with significantly more noise.

    Signal-to-noise ratio

    Earlier, we talked about photodiodes generating a voltage and that, like all circuits, we have a “floor” noise level. The signal-to-noise ratio is defined by the relation between the output voltage, and this floor level.

    Here we represent SNR in a graphic form. Below in orange is the noise floor, and above in blue is the signal level (in this case, the voltage generated by the sensor’s photodiode).

    Now we represent a situation where the voltage is significantly lower. Perhaps because of short exposure. You can see how the SNR is reduced.

    And on this final graph, we represent the previous situation when we apply a high ISO setting (amplifying the voltage). The noise floor is also increased, generating an image with significantly more noise.

    If you want to know the math behind this, look at this Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Signal-to-noise_ratio.

    Conclusion

    In conclusion, noise is an unavoidable phenomenon in digital photography that affects the quality and clarity of images. Noise is caused by various factors, such as underexposure, high ISO settings, low light conditions, and sensor size. However, noise can be reduced or corrected by using appropriate camera settings, choosing a larger sensor camera, or shooting with better light. Of course, we also have excellent noise reduction software today, and shooting in raw format always helps.

    By understanding what noise is, where it comes from, and how it affects digital images, photographers can make better choices to minimize its impact and achieve the desired results.

  • I started shooting in film. Now, what’s next?

    I started shooting in film. Now, what’s next?

    Source: Adobe Stock

    There is something thrilling about trying something new for the first time. The anticipation of discovering something unknown and the challenge to overcome your fears and doubts can be scary and exhilarating.

    This is exactly how I felt when I started the journey of analog film photography. And I love it so much that I went one step further. From the excitement of taking film pictures, to the scary joy of developing the film myself.

    In the beginning, I decided to use a photo store to develop the negatives. I then learned that in my town, there’s a person that has a lab and develops films for others. This looked like a great opportunity because it will take a full month to get the negatives developed by the local photo store. After a short exchange of texts, and miscommunication, I decided that maybe I should look into how to do this myself. To my surprise, I found that it wasn’t something that difficult. Yes, the process requires precision, patience, and attention to detail. I was instantly hooked on the idea of developing my own films.

    Without much hesitation, I got a film processing kit from Patterson with all the necessary items. It can develop two 35 mm rolls or one 120. This kit comes with Ilford Simplicity Starter Pack which was perfect as I was already shooting in Ilford film. 

    A big rabbit hole opened in front of me. 🙂

    The process

    Developing black and white film is a process that involves a number of steps that have to be prepared in advance, and executed with precision. It’s not difficult, but easy to mess up a step and ruin the film.

    Below are the steps I followed. I’m including these to illustrate what’s needed at a very high level. This is not a complete list of all that needs to be done. So please use this as a guide, and do your own investigation to learn the process.

    Preparations

    This stage took quite a while for me. I went over multiple YouTube videos, and manufacturer’s manuals until I was confident that I got the process correctly. I watched the best videos multiple times taking notes. I also practiced loading the film into the reel, and into the developing tank multiple times.

    1. Get all of the materials needed for developing your film.
    2. Watch as many YouTube videos and web articles about how to do this. Take notes and write a final step-by-step instruction on paper. Make sure you use the recommended values for your film and developer combination. Learn the exact dilution for your chemicals, water temperature, and film. 
    3. Practice loading the film into the reel. First, with your eyes open, and then with them closed. You will have to ruin a roll for this, but it’s worth it.
    4. Make sure you have latex gloves and eye protection gear available for when you work with the chemicals.

    Loading the roll into the developing tank

    This is the trickiest part for me because it’s hard to do all this in complete darkness. And if you don’t load the film correctly into the reel it will probably be ruined (chemicals will not reach all of the film). But, practice makes perfect. If you follow the preparation stage you should be ready to nail this one.

    1. Work in a room without visible light, or use a film-changing bag to avoid exposing your film to light.
    2. Set up all the material so you can access it in the darkness. Then turn off the light (or put everything into the bag).
    3. If you are developing a 35 mm film, open the film canister with a bottle opener or a film canister opener and cut the end of the film with scissors. For 120 films, peel the end and unroll it, separating the film from the paper back.
    4. In total darkness, feed the film into the slot on the film reel and wind it until it reaches the end. Put the reel inside the development tank and close the lid.

    Now you can turn on the lights!

    Source: Adobe Stock

    A Patterson tank with the film reel. This is for a 35 mm roll, but it can be extended to hold a 120 film roll

    Developing the film

    This stage is critical because once you pour the developer there’s no stopping it. You have to follow the exact time for each step as instructed by the manufacturer. Good preparation is vital.

    1. Use latex gloves and eye protection for the following steps.
    2. Mix up your chemistry according to the instructions from your manufacturer. You will need a developer, a stop bath, and a fixer. A wet agent is optional but highly recommended. Make sure not to contaminate the chemicals, so do not use the same container. Pay attention to the water temperature. Developing time is different based on temperature.
    3. Pour the developer into the tank and agitate it for the recommended time. The developer will make the latent image on your film visible. A more prolonged agitation will render the photo with more contrast.
    4. Pour out the developer and pour in the stop bath. The stop bath will neutralize the developer and stop the development process. Agitate it for a few seconds.
    5. Pour out the stop bath and pour in the fixer. The fixer will make your film permanent and light-resistant. Agitate it for a few minutes.
    6. Pour out the fixer and wash your film with water to remove residual chemicals. Optionally, use a wet agent to help with rinsing the negative without leaving spot marks from the water.
    7. Congratulations! You have developed your own black and white film! 

    Final steps

    You are done with the developing stage, things should be less stressful now. Make sure you handle the negatives with care and wear cotton gloves to avoid scratching them.

    1. Hang up your film to dry in a dust-free area.
    2. Use a squidgy to remove all the water from the film.
    3. Once dry, cut the film into the size that fits your storage, or film scanner.
    4. Store the negatives in acid-free envelopes and/or plastic strips to protect them.

    Notes about disposing of your used chemicals

    Disposing of used developer chemicals is an integral part of film photography, as some of these chemicals may harm the environment or human health. The best way to dispose of them depends on the type and amount of chemicals you have and the local regulations and facilities in your area. Please find out how to do this in your area. And use your local recycling depot.

    What did you learn, Pedro?

    In my experience, the most challenging part is loading the film into the reel. This is done in complete darkness or inside the developing bag. For this reason, as mentioned above, I recommend you ruin a film to practice before you develop your first film roll.

    Planning is the most important part of film development. You have to prepare for everything that is needed ahead of time. Having sufficient water, tools, and space. Notes on the timing, a stopwatch, etc. Because, once you start pouring the developer, there’s no stopping the process.

    I learn everything from a few YouTube videos and reading the film and chemicals manufacturer’s instructions. Take your time to watch those videos, and do it multiple times. Then write down your notes. Putting the process down on paper will help you memorize it. I can’t emphasize this enough.

    If you are thorough in the preparation, developing your film should not be a problem. If I made it I’m sure you can too.

    Source: Adobe Stock

    Developer agent options

    Which developer agent should I use? There is no definitive answer to this question, as different developers may have different effects on contrast, grain, sharpness, tonality, and film speed. However, some of the most popular and versatile developers are:

    • Ilford Ilfosol 3: suitable for beginners. It’s especially suited for medium-speed films.
    • Kodak D-76: A powder developer is considered the standard developer for many films. It produces fine grain and good shadow detail.
    • Ilford ID-11: A powder developer similar to Kodak D-76, but with minor differences. It is also fine-grained and works well with most films.
    • Kodak HC-110: A liquid concentrate developer favoured by Zone System users for its ability to yield full shadow detail, a wide tonal scale, and full film speed. It is also economical and long-lasting.
    • Ilford Ilfotec DD-X: A liquid concentrate developer designed to push film to higher ISOs. It produces fine grain, high sharpness, and pleasing tonality. It is especially suited for Ilford Delta films.

    The difference between a powder and a liquid developer is mainly in the form, the cost, and the shelf life. A powder developer needs to be dissolved in water to create a stock solution, which can then be diluted further to make a working solution. A liquid developer is already a concentrate that can easily dilute with water.

    A powder developer is usually cheaper than a liquid developer and is easier to travel with. However, it may take more time and effort to mix it properly, and it may have a shorter shelf life once mixed. Some developers are available in powder and liquid forms, such as Kodak D-76 and Ilford ID-11. 

    Ultimately, the best developer for you depends on your preference, budget, choice of film, and desired results. You may want to experiment with different developers to see how they affect your images.

    If you are starting I recommend using a liquid developer. And if you shoot Ilford film, go for their developing kits. This is what I did, keeping it simple until I have more experience.

    Film and chemical combinations

    You don’t have to use the same chemicals from the film manufacturer. Many people experiment and use different combinations of films and chemicals. I’m still following the safe option and sticking to Ilford products. But soon, I will get Fomapan and Kodak films so I’ll have to decide which developing agent to use on those. I will probably use a different set of chemicals. If you are mixing brands there’s a website with a large database of film and developer combinations, Digitaltruth Photo – Film Photography & Darkroom Resources.

    Summary

    The excitement of starting a new activity comes from the opportunity to grow and change as a person. You may find that you love the new activity and want to pursue it further or that you hate it and never want to do it again. Either way, you have gained something valuable: a new experience.

    Developing your own photo film negatives can be a rewarding and fun experience. This has been the case for me. By choosing different developers and developing processes, you will have control over how your photos will look like. For example, you can experiment as much as you want. If you are like me and enjoy learning something new, you will have a great time.

    Resources

  • Why do I Feel Like a Fraud

    Why do I Feel Like a Fraud

    If you are an artist, you probably experienced moments where you thought you were not good enough. A certainty that your art is not worth it, and that you will be singled out as a fraud. Sometimes this feeling is so powerful that it causes us to abandon doing what we love. This is known as “Impostor Syndrome.” It is prevalent in all sorts of professional fields. 

    According to the Canadian Medical Association, impostor syndrome is a psychological pattern of fear and self-doubt. It interferes with people’s belief in their accomplishments. It burdens them with the persistent, internalized fear of being exposed as a fraud despite evidence of their abilities (Imposter Syndrome | CMA)

    Source: Adobe Stock

    The term “Impostor Syndrome” was coined by American psychologists Pauline Clance and Suzanne Imes in 1978. (Impostor syndrome – Wikipedia)

    Some of the symptoms of impostor syndrome are:

    • Crediting luck or other reasons for any success
    • Fear of being seen as a fraud or a failure
    • Feeling that overworking is the only way to meet expectations
    • Feeling unworthy of attention or affection
    • Downplaying accomplishments
    • Holding back from reaching attainable goals
    • Self-sabotaging before making new attempts
    • Dependence on external validation
    • Fears of not living up to expectations of yourself and others
    • Depression, anxiety, distress, guilt, and shame

    Impostor syndrome can affect your personal life in various ways:

    • It can make you doubt your worthiness of love, respect, or admiration from others.
    • It can prevent you from pursuing new opportunities, challenges, or hobbies that could enrich your life and career.
    • It can make you avoid situations or interactions where you fear being judged or exposed as a fraud.
    • It can make you overwork or overcompensate to prove yourself to others.
    • It can make you sabotage your own achievements by rejecting compliments, downplaying your contributions, or creating conflicts.

    I tick several, if not all, of those above. I give up easily if I’m not consciously analyzing my feelings as an artist. I particularly suffer from believing that luck is why I end up with good work. I also downplay my accomplishments.

    When I search the Internet for inspiration or browse my Instagram, I often get depressed, thinking I will never create something as good as what I see there. And that is why I should stop trying since millions of better artists are out there.

    Over time, and with some reading, I concluded that the fact that there are better artists doesn’t mean I’m not good. And that this should not be a reason for me to stop, discard work, or not share it. It doesn’t help that most people think this syndrome is not real, a sign of weakness, or an excuse to hide behind. But there is hope.

    Source: Adobe Stock

    Recognition is the first step towards overcoming it.

    I needed a method to avoid getting trapped in negative thoughts. The first one is to accept that everyone has their own voice, which doesn’t mean we are less than others. I then started to identify these thoughts and immediately block them. When looking at other artists’ work, I often force myself to convert the negative emotion into an opportunity to analyze and learn from their art. I focus on envisioning how I would use it as inspiration for my next work. 

    I also work on breaking the pattern that prevents me from sharing my work. I simply think, “I don’t care what others might say.” Although I use more colourful language. This only works some of the time, though. It’s a work in progress…

    Joining a photo club helped me a lot. I started receiving helpful feedback from people I barely knew and with expertise in the art form. Before that, I would share my photos with family and constantly get praise. But I always knew that is what family and close friends would say.

    Some of the ways to cope with Impostor Syndrome are:

    • Separate feelings from facts. Recognize that your feelings of inadequacy are not the same as your actual abilities and achievements.
    • Take note of your accomplishments. Keep a record of your successes and positive feedback that you can refer to when you feel doubtful.
    • Stop comparing. Focus on measuring your own achievements instead of holding them up against others.
    • Talk to others. Share your feelings with someone you trust, such as a friend, mentor, or therapist. They can help you challenge your negative thoughts and provide support and encouragement.

    We should identify those negative feelings when they show up and learn how to divert or avoid them using some of the coping mechanisms. Talk to others, and reach out to your local artist’s community. In this case, I found having face-to-face interaction works better than online.

    Make a plan of how you are going to cope with this syndrome. Write it down on paper and keep it handy when needed. Try accepting that, as an artist, we are in the stage of development that we have to be. And remember, this is a journey where we never stop learning and improving. 

    Impostor Syndrome is not just a label. It has a profound impact on the lives of artists. It can be debilitating and contribute to depression. I know this first hand. It’s important to know that it cannot be cured by simply changing our behaviours. It requires acknowledging one’s accomplishments, seeking external validation, challenging negative self-talk, and seeking professional help if needed.

    Source: MoMA New York

    FYI, the author of this painting is Kazimir Malevich, a Russian avant-garde artist. The picture title is “Suprematist Composition: White on White.” It was created in 1918. It is a geometric abstraction representing a white square floating in a white field without reference to external reality.

    Malevich wanted to create a sense of floating and transcendence with this painting, which he considered an expression of pure feeling and perception. (Kazimir Malevich. Suprematist Composition: White on White. 1918 | MoMA)

    Kazimir Malevich. Suprematist Composition: White on White. 1918 | MoMA

    This paint is exposed in the Museum Of Modern Art in New York.

    Did the artist suffer from impostor syndrome? What do you think? 🙂

  • Film photography. Or, why would you want to make your life more difficult?

    Film photography. Or, why would you want to make your life more difficult?

    Source: Adobe Stock

    So I bought a medium format film camera. Right. Why would I want to do this? Why go back decades to a time when taking good photos needed more dedication and a lot of knowledge?

    I don’t have an answer. It could be nostalgia or a middle-life crisis. Whatever it is, it doesn’t matter. I’m in this boat now. So let’s get hands-on and shoot some photos.

    The Camera

    I’ve written before about the Mamiya C33 that I own. You can read it here: Film Photography In a Digital World

    My first roll

    I have some basic knowledge of film from the many film simulations I’ve been using. It’s different, but still a good reference. This gave me a basic idea of what I wanted to start with.

    So I chose an Ilford Delta 3200. It’s winter and overcast most days, so 3200 ISO is a good option. It’s grainy and contrasty, which I like. I later got an Ilford HP5+ 400 ISO and an Ilford XP2 super 400.

    Taking the photos

    I’m learning how to shoot film in full manual mode, and how the different settings and film affects the result of the photos. To remember what I did I had to keep track of the settings of each image. I used a note App on my phone, and these are the entries of my first roll:

    1 – 1/500 f5.6
    2 – 1/500 f5.6
    3 – 1/60 f4.5
    4 – 1/250 f11
    5 – 1/250 f11
    6 – 1/125 f9
    7 – 1/60 f9
    8 – 1/60 f9
    9 – 1/125 f8
    10 – 1/250 f8
    11 – 1/250 f8
    12 – 1/250 f11

    The Ilford Delta 3200 is a fast film, which explains the relatively short speed at small apertures of the initial shots. The maximum shutter speed in my 135mm lens is 1/500 of a second. Yes, the shutter speed and aperture are on the lenses.

    I took all of the pictures on overcast, dark winter days. I overexposed some shots by one-stop, as suggested in the tutorials I watched on YouTube.

    In this camera, taking each photo requires a sequence of steps. You must be careful and make sure you follow the exact order. For my camera, which is a TLR, it goes like this:

    1. Measure light (I use a phone App)
    2. Set aperture and shutter speed
    3. Measure light again
    4. Change aperture or shutter speed if needed
    5. Crank the film
    6. Focus on the subject (take time to get this right)
    7. Frame shot (look at the horizon and all edges. Account for parallax)
    8. Take the photo
    9. Repeat as needed 🙂

    The nature of this process and how it slows me down is one of the main reasons I love the experience.

    Source: Adobe Stock

    Results

    As of this writing, I am still waiting to receive the negatives. The only camera shop I have that deals with film doesn’t develop black and white in-house. I’ll write another article about the results.

    Lessons learned

    The first and most important one is to slow down. Evaluate the scene, the subject, and the light. Measure the light a few times and set the camera accordingly. Frame the photo carefully, and look at the edges, horizon, and tilt. When you are satisfied with the above, take the picture.

    Decide if you want to overexpose (push in film terminology). Some films are much more forgiving than digital photography. You can safely overexpose the Delta 3200 by two or three stops.

    Keep track of the settings for each shot. Use a small notebook or an App on your phone. There’s no EXIF in film 🙂

    Start with a single type of film and stay with it long enough to compare all the different settings you used and how they impacted the images. And if you are developing the film yourself, it will also help you find the exact method for you. I started with the opposite, one roll of each film type. But I’ll be staying with Ilford H5+ for a while.

    The final one: take all the mistakes as a gift and opportunity to learn.

    Summary

    If you are interested in starting in film photography, I recommend spending as much time as possible researching. Watch YouTube channels, read reviews, learn about the process of film photography, and think about what type of photography you want to do. Doing this will help you select the best camera and lenses and start on the right foot. 

    Resources

    Ilford official site: ILFORD PHOTO | The home of B&W film photography

    Kodak’s official site for camera films: Photographers | Kodak Alaris

    Nik Carver YouTube channel. He talks all about film photography. Although he prefers 16×170 film and medium format, all you can learn will apply to 35mm:
    Nick Carver – YouTube

    If you are interested in developing, Andrew has many videos about the topic:
    Andrew & Denae – YouTube

    Matt Day will teach you about cameras, film and the developing process:
    Matt Day – YouTube

    This website lists the characteristics of the most available films of today:
    Photo Film Index – The Darkroom’s comprehensive photography film index

    If you are developing your films, this website will help you find the exact times for your film and developing liquid: 
    Digitaltruth Photo – Film Photography & Darkroom Resources

  • Finding your voice, part II

    Finding your voice, part II

    Source: Adobe Stock

    For most people, progress results from hard work, attempts and failures. Only a tiny group is gifted enough to bypass this learning phase. It took me a long time to figure this out. I belong to a group of people who needs time and repetition to learn anything. Before I discovered that about myself, I thought you were either born with the gift or not. And in my mind, for many things, I didn’t.

    People say time brings wisdom, and I can attest this is true. In my life, I had to go through a very long learning period. I first had to learn who I was, my strengths and my limits. All the good things came through breakthroughs between many failures. Things started to get easier once I identified that hard work was the only path to knowledge for me. A significant weight was lifted from my shoulders at the same time.

    Since then, I have been able to focus on what I needed to do rather than give up. I have been able to concentrate on enjoying the early phases of learning. And to get out of my mind any pressure to be the best.

    I studied music theory enough to understand it is just another language. I’m attempting to learn piano; just a few chords are good enough for me. And I re-started drawing and painting, among many other things.

    The key is to know yourself, be ready to fail, and accept this as a gift.

    But this discovery and new enthusiasm for doing things brought another problem.

    A Scanner Mind

    Are you extremely curious? Are you constantly trying to learn new things? But only stick long enough to acquire some knowledge? Do you jump between many different areas of interest?

    If you replied yes, you might have a “Scanner Mind.”

    Before I learned about having a “scanner mind,” I was afraid of being a failure, never pursuing something to its full potential. Felt like a quitter, not good enough. You get the picture.

    Some people called us lazy for not finishing what we started. But we are not lazy at all. On the contrary, we dedicate much time and effort to learning many things. And we are good at that.

    When I discovered this, suddenly, it all made sense. A feeling of relief filled my body.

    I’ll try to explain what a Scanner Mind does, but I suggest you read the book “Refuse To Choose!” by Barbara Sher.

    First, we scanners have many excellent traits. A sense of wonder about the world, we are good at learning new things. We are innovative, curious, and open to change. This broad knowledge across many fields lets us bring new perspectives to everything we work with. Don’t let anyone tell you that, as a generalist, we don’t know anything.

    Source: Adobe Stock

    When having a scanner mind turns into a problem

    As a person with a Scanner Mind, the interest in many topics has the side effect of starting multiple simultaneous projects until we feel so overwhelmed that we stop working on them.

    I’m trying to advance or complete all of these. Of course, the following is not the complete list of items:

    • Practice drums daily
    • Practice bass at least three times a week
    • Write more articles for Substack
    • Complete my “Paris in B&W” photo book
    • Complete courses in painting, Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator
    • Work more on my photography
    • Learn how to develop film
    • Create a plan to set up a local business around photography, prints
    • Update my four websites
    • etc.

    These self-imposed goals result in stress, a sense of failure, and an overall negative mindset. What can I do about it? For most things, I do nothing, and for some, I push through to complete them. One day, I took action with the help of “Refuse To Choose!” by Barbara Sher. 

    Following the book suggestion, I started listing all the things I wanted to do and the ones halfway completed. Then I attacked the more urgent ones (for example, finishing the photos from a wedding commission).

    Finishing the “must complete” tasks took the pressure off my back. The remaining goals were for me, for my pleasure. Things I want to do, learn and build. I also told myself that I could take my time to do everything. I now use a journal where I write whatever idea comes to mind. I write and draw diagrams of what exactly I want to do. Writing on paper allows me to take the idea out of my mind. Most of these ideas will stay on paper, and I will only work on a few.

    What have we learned today?

    Don’t give up. Not until you take time to think about yourself. Look for what really matters to you and the barriers to achieving that. And don’t give up until after you try.

    Start a journal of all your interests. For each of them, write in detail what you want to achieve. Use diagrams, lists, drawings, and anything that helps you capture your ideas. Putting everything on paper, no matter how simple and small an idea is, will help you take the pressure off your back.

    Finally, embrace failure.


    I will finish with a quote from the book “Refuse To Choose!” by Barbara Sher:

    “You have no obligation to finish every single thing you start.”

    Source: Adobe Stock

  • Film Photography In a Digital World

    Film Photography In a Digital World

    In 1839 as the first tea leaves arrived in the UK from India, a Frenchman named Louis Daguerre announced the first commonly used method to capture images using a chemical reaction. He used a silver-coated copper plate treated with fumes that made the surface sensitive to light. This method was called Daguerreotype.

    There was an earlier attempt to create such a method developed by Nicephore Niepce. In 1929 Daguerre convinced Niepce to tell him the details of his work. He agreed, but only after Daguerre was sworn to secrecy under penalty of damages. This effort resulted in the process known as physautotype.

    After Niepce’s death, his son recognized that Daguerre significantly improved the original method resulting in a completely new process. Hence the secrecy and penalty did not apply anymore.

    At this point, anglo-french politics made a presence. Daguerre gave France his invention in exchange for a lifetime pension for himself, Niepce’s son, and his wife. However, he wasn’t keen on letting the British people use it for free, so he registered patents in England and Wales. I wonder if Scotland and Ireland did have patent offices or if Daguerre was trying to make a point.

    On January 1st, 1839, Daguerre took the first photograph of the moon, unknowingly starting the genre of astrophotography. And on January 9th of the same year, he announced his invention publicly.

    And with that, modern photography was born.

    Early Years

    Film photography formed part of my early life, childhood and teenage periods. I bought my first camera, a 110 film Agfa when I was fifteen.

    I also used my father’s Olympus Pen-E. Later in my life, I bought a 35mm Canon and Minolta. Film photography was a method to capture snapshots of my life and family. Nothing more.

    Little did I know that the photography bug would catch me years later. In 2008 I started my period as a serious photographer. Just as the boom of affordable digital DSLRs was beginning.

    I never really used film in any artistic way. And this was sitting in the back of my mind for a long time. It was only a matter of time before I was going to look back and decided to give film photography a try.

    Leap Of Faith

    In December 2022, while browsing ads on Facebook Market. I spotted a nice film camera for sale in my city. I did not think twice and bought it.

    A piece of advice for you is to browse ads sites if you need something specific. Temptation is the devil 🙂

    Photo: Pierre Guynot de Boismenu

    Back To Basics

    So I now own a beautiful Mamiya C33 camera with 65mm and 135mm lenses. This camera takes 120 films, a 6x6cm medium format. It is unique as it has two lenses, one used for the viewfinder and the other to expose the film, which gives them the name of Twin Lens Reflex camera, or TLR for short.

    This camera is entirely mechanical, and it has no light meter mechanism. You have to measure the light and calculate the exposure compensation depending on how far away the subject is. It focuses by moving the front plate that holds the lens forward. When you extend the bellow to focus, less light will reach the lens. This means you have to calculate the exposure adjustment. If your camera doesn’t have marks in the viewfinder indicating this, you have to measure the distance between the film and the lens plane. If this distance is equal to or smaller than your lens focal length, then you don’t need adjustment. But if it’s longer, then you have to use a formula to determine how much extra exposure you need (1.5x, 2x, etc.). The exact details are a topic for a later article.

    And then we have the parallax issue. The parallax error occurs when a measurement is made from different viewing angles. In other words, what you see through the viewfinder differs from what the primary lens will capture. Before taking the picture, you must move the camera up. This adjustment will depend on how close your subject is.

    Buyer’s Regret?

    It’s been only a few days since I purchased the camera, and I’m even more excited about this. I digested several YouTube videos about this camera and similar models like the C330 and C220. I found the original manual in PDF. A company that sells focusing plates with exposure adjustment marks for the viewfinder and another one that sells light seals if I ever need to replace any. 

    I can buy 120 film rolls in my city, both Ilford and Kodak. And I even found a local photographer who runs his own development studio for black and white and colour film. 

    Summary

    I learned that although I didn’t take photography seriously when I was young, the seed was there. I started this journey in 2008 and haven’t stopped ever since. I keep looking for new things to try and learn.

    There’s value in reading about the history of the things you enjoy. Learning about the origins of photography, from the Camera Obscura to Daguerre’s process, adds meaning to my passion.

    We are lucky that we still have many film cameras from the golden era of photography. A testament to how well these were made. We must keep this tradition alive; I’m glad I’m now part of it.

    What’s Next?

    I’ll document my experiences with my Mamiya C33 in future articles. Right now, I will have to buy a few rolls to practice. Make errors and learn.

    How about you?

    Do you use film cameras? Have you experienced the joy and pain of film? I would love to hear your stories.

  • When is time to move to a new camera ecosystem

    When is time to move to a new camera ecosystem

    It all began with a single choice. One that sent me through a path I would have never predicted.

    Some decisions in life require a thorough and careful analysis before we decide to move ahead. Ideally, one must consider the future impact our selection will have. 

    And what did I do when I bought my first camera? Exactly the opposite.

    It was a somewhat random choice. I knew I wanted a DSLR and that back then, Canon and Nikon were the best bets. But besides those considerations, I didn’t put any other thoughts. So, one day in 2008, I bought a Canon Rebel XS with the kit lens.

    Why Canon and not Nikon? You might ask. Well, I could tell you it was for the noise handling, the dynamic range, the menu, handling, etc. But the truth is that I went for the one that was on sale that day. You see, I didn’t know anything about photography. That was the beginning of my journey as a photographer. 

    After learning a lot with my initial kit, I eventually moved to a mid-range DSLR, Canon 60D, a full-frame DSLR, Canon 6D, and a full-frame mirrorless Canon R. On the lens side, the advance was faster. I got a few Canon “L” lenses as soon as I could afford them. 

    That was my ecosystem built around Canon. I was happy with it, although I still consider the 60D as the body producing the better photos in colour tone and character. 

    But things were about to change.

    Fujifilm X-T4 camera (shot with Fujifilm GFX 50s II)

    Jumping ships

    The more invested you are in an ecosystem, the harder it is to move to a different one. Difficult but possible.

    And that is what I did this past summer.

    I started thinking of changing equipment when I realized how much more expensive the new Canon RF equipment has become. I was also unhappy with the EOS R camera. Moving to a more recent body, like the R5, would increase my budget significantly.

    At the same time, I started paying attention to Fujifilm, and the more I read and heard, the more I liked it. Yes, it was back to the APS-C sensor; however, their X system offers the best quality per dollar. You can buy excellent lenses from Fuji and third-party manufacturers. I was also ready to downsize and get away from the large, heavy lenses. 

    This was my journey; what worked for me and why might not apply to you or anyone else. I recommend you take time to consider if you want to change equipment. Learn as much as possible about the brand and gear you are considering buying. And plan for the transition. 

    I bought a Fujifilm camera and a couple of lenses to start. And I have no regret at all. And I now have a path forward for larger resolution with the latest 40M pixels H2 and X-T5 cameras launched by Fuji. 

    Fujifilm X-T4 with 50-140mm f2.8 lens (shot with Fujifilm GFX 50s II)

    The conclusion

    We all travel different paths and have different needs. And most of the things around photography, like any art, are highly subjective. 

    When changing photographic gear, you must decide what’s best for you. It would be best if you do your due diligence, learn as much as possible, and try to borrow or rent the equipment before you buy it.

    Be ready for disruption; most likely, your workflow will have to change, some things will break, and you’ll have to adjust.

    Then everything has to change, flashes, cables, remote triggers. Your filters will need a step-down ring, or you have to get new ones if going up in size. You have to have a replacement strategy for every single item.

    And then there’s the handling of the camera: a new menu, different features, and different layouts of buttons and dials. Heck, in Fujifilm XF, the aperture is on the lens itself (although a dial can control it). Be ready to hate the changes initially, but things will get better if you persevere.

    Suggestions

    Decide if you want to go with the latest model or save some money by buying the previous version.

    See if the new camera has a lens adaptor for your current lenses. You might be able to avoid having to replace all of them at once.

    Sell your equipment individually; it’s more effort, but you will get more cash.

    Avoid swapping the gear in a camera store; you will get much less money for it. 

    If there’s a rental shop near, consider renting it before buying.

    Be patient.

    Canon EOS R and 100mm f2.8 L Macro lens
  • Finding your voice (Part 1)

    Finding your voice (Part 1)

    When I was a teenager, I didn’t know anything about photography. The family camera was used to take snapshots of our vacations and family events. However, I learned that Fujifilm produced nicer-looking skies. That Kodak films had warmer colour, and that Agfa, at least the ones available to us, wasn’t as good as the other two.

    Source: Adobe Stock

    Photographers have been chasing different looks for a very long time. It was done with films, and paper, in the analog years and with several other tools in the digital.

    But before I start talking about film looks, I want to talk about the process between the image captured in the sensor and the one in the resulting file, JPEG or RAW.

    Sensors capture light. And they do that by separating the light with filters into red, green, and blue (RGB). Light is captured by the sensor pixels, converted to a digital value, and stored in a file.

    If the file is RAW, it will contain the exact data captured by the sensor with no manipulation. The camera has a process to convert the RAW data into JPEG file format. If we open a RAW file, we will see the image looks terrible.

    I’m trying to point out that we always have to apply a process to images captured by digital cameras.

    When done by the camera, this process is what some photographers call the “Nikon colour” or “insert your brand here colour.” And yes, it is essential to consider this when purchasing a camera.

    But many other photographers don’t care much about what the camera does and process the RAW file in editing software. There’s no right or wrong approach; all paths are valid when developing your “voice.”

    There are many tools to edit your photos, from the classic Photoshop, Lightroom, and Capture One to DxO Photolab or PaintShop Pro, to name a few. They all do the same task, convert your RAW into a format that can be used.

    And then we have presets, recipes, styles, plugins, etc. These are pre-edits done by other people and packaged for easy use. With one click, you’ll get the edit applied. Of course, you can edit these to alter the look to your own liking.

    Within these pre-build edits, a group specializes in reproducing the look of classic analog films. We have Fujifilm with their classic film emulation built into their cameras and Nik Collection with the excellent SilverFX Pro to convert photos into black and white. DxO started this before everyone with their Film Pack plugin.

    Source: Adobe Stock

    Many artists started creating incredible photos with all these tools in their hands. We also have many with the view that photography should be pure and avoid excessive manipulation. In my opinion, it doesn’t matter. Each photographer has to find their “voice.” There’s no right or wrong way of doing this.

    I went through a journey in my early years as a photographer. I started in the heyday of HDR, and my early work reflects that. I cringe when I look back at those photos. I then turned down the overprocessing and settled in more subtle edits. Spending a full year following the mantra “getting it right on the camera.” Don’t get me wrong, I use high saturation but only when it has a purpose and still looks natural. Because nature can be very oversaturated. And I embraced black and white.

    An HDR photo from my early years. I can’t believe I was proud of it…

    I recently purchased my first Fujifilm camera, and I’m now experimenting with their film simulations. I find that DxO Photolab has the same settings as the camera, so I can apply them without the cumbersome Fuji process (a topic for another article).

    I want you to not worry about stigmas and stereotypes. Use all the tools you need to show who you are through your work. Make mistakes, learn from them, and experiment. Your style, or voice, will result from your own journey.


    Because you made it to the end of the article, here’s one of my pictures for you.

    Photo: Pierre Guynot de Boismenu

  • Focal length, or, when 50mm is 50mm?

    Focal length, or, when 50mm is 50mm?

    I recently explained to a friend how his 50mm lens was not actually a 50mm on his camera. And that the lens’s actual focal length depends on the type of sensor size. I was surprised this was a completely alien concept to them. I know this is one of the most confusing aspects of photography.

    So, what is focal length? And how can I relate it to my photos?

    I always like to define the terms:

    fo·cal length

    NOUN

    The distance between the center of a lens or curved mirror and its focus.

    This is not much help, is it? Ok, let’s try it again. But bear with me while I explain some technical details (nerd alert warning).

    Focal length results from calculating an optical distance from the point where light rays converge (“F”) to form a sharp image of an object to the digital sensor. The distance of the lens to the focal point “F” and to the subject.

    In the diagram above, we can see that the focal length (f) is the distance between the lens and the focal point of the lens (F). That “i” is the distance between “F” and your camera’s sensor. And finally, “o” is the distance between the lens and the object.

    In other words, the focal length is related to the physical construction of the lens and the size of the camera sensor.

    If you fancy some math, here is the formula to calculate the focal length of the lens:

    We certainly don’t need to learn the math behind it. We need to remember that we define focal length using specific distances and a 35mm sensor (or film) as a reference.

    All good? Because things always get complicated…

    Here is where the confusion starts. If life were easy, the description above would be perfect, and off we go. But we have invented different sensor sizes, which alter the distance “i.” In doing so, it changes the result of the formula.

    The diagram above shows how a smaller sensor will have to be closer to the focal point “F” to obtain a sharp image using the same lens. As a result, we will now have a different “i” distance and a different focal length.

    In short, on any sensor smaller than 35mm, we will have to multiply the lens’ focal length with a factor greater than 1 to obtain the 35mm equivalent focal length. The multiplying factor is provided by each camera manufacturer, and it varies between 1.5 and 1.7.

    An example will be easier to understand:

    A 50mm lens used on a camera with an APS-C sensor with a 1.5x multiplying factor will result in a 75mm equivalent focal length.

    If we go the other way and use a medium format sensor (larger than 35mm), the conversion uses a factor lower than 1.

    Focal length, angle of view and magnification

    The focal length also defines the lens’s angle of view and magnification. The longer the focal length, the narrower the angle of view and the higher the magnification (a telephoto lens, for example). The shorter the focal length, the wider the angle of view and the lower the magnification (a wide-angle lens, for example).

    Suppose our 50mm lens gets converted to a 75mm lens by using it on a small sensor camera. In that case, it will also have a narrower angle of view and higher magnification.

    As a rule of thumb, lenses used on smaller sensors will have a longer focal length than what the lens says, a narrower angle of view and higher magnification.

    What about the X factor?

    I wanted to also mention what some manufacturers use as measurements for their lenses. This applies to zoom lenses, usually on less expensive cameras and phones.

    You have probably seen this, a camera has 10x zoom, 3x zoom, etc. We tend to identify a higher x number as a better lens that can reach out longer (telephoto). But manufacturers don’t tell us that this factor, 10x, for example, refers to the lens and how it was designed. 10x refers to a lens with a factor of 10 between the shorter and the longer focal length. A zoom lens that is 10mm to 100mm will be considered a 10x zoom. And a 10mm to 40mm will be a 4x zoom. But a 25mm to 100mm will also be a 4x zoom. Do you see the problem here?

    Congratulations!! You made it to the end of the article. Here’s a nice picture for you 🙂

    From my “Robots” series. Digital drawing in Procreate.
  • Why I Prefer Black and White Photography

    Why I Prefer Black and White Photography

    Source: Adobe Stock

    Black and white photography was the only option for a long time. It remained the dominant medium for photography until the 1960s when colour photography became more affordable and widespread.

    The invention of colour photography was a long and complex process that involved many different experiments and methods. According to Wikipedia (1), the foundation of all practical colour processes was the three-colour method, which Scottish physicist James Clerk Maxwell first suggested in an 1855 paper on colour vision. Thomas Sutton took the first colour photograph made by this method for a Maxwell lecture in 1861. 

    However, it took years for colour photography to become widely available and affordable. One of the first successful colour processes was the autochrome process, invented by French brothers Auguste and Louis Lumière. They developed a technique combining dyed potato starch grains with three colour filters on top of a glass plate. They began commercializing autochrome plates in the early 20th century (2). Autochrome was popular until the 1930s, when it was replaced by more advanced colour processes such as Kodachrome and Agfacolor.

    Gothenburg, Sweden with a 10M pixel camera | Photo: Pierre Guynot de Boismenu

    Despite the success of colour photography, many photographers like me still prefer black and white for its artistic and expressive qualities and its ability to capture contrast, texture, shape, and light in shades of grey. 

    I appreciate black and white aesthetic and nostalgic appeal and its challenge to see beyond colours. I enjoy the freedom of focusing on composition and the overall emotion a black and white photo can bring.

    Some might argue that black-and-white photography is even more powerful and expressive than colour photography, and here are some reasons why.

    • Black and white photography simplifies an image and eliminates distractions. Colour can be beautiful, but it can also be noisy, cluttered and overwhelming. By removing colour, you can draw attention to the subject, the composition, the mood and the message of your photo. You can also create a timeless and classic look that transcends the trends and fashions of colour photography. (3)
    • Black and white photography enhances contrast and drama. Contrast is one of the essential elements of a good black-and-white photo, as it creates visual interest, depth and dimension. You can use contrast to highlight your subject’s shapes and forms, create patterns and textures, emphasize light and shadow, and convey emotions and feelings. Contrast can also develop a sense of drama and tension in your photo as you play with the extremes of black and white. (4)
    • Black and white photography challenges your creativity and skills. Shooting in black and white requires you to see the world differently, to look beyond the colours and focus on the tonal values, the shapes, the lines and the details. You must train your eye to look for interesting subjects that work well in black and white, such as portraits, landscapes, architecture and street scenes. It would help if you mastered the technical aspects of exposure, lighting, composition and post-processing to create stunning black-and-white images. (5)

    Trivia: on the gallery above there’s one photo taken on film. Can you guess which one? Drop me a message if you do 🙂

    Black and white photography is not just a matter of desaturating your colour photos. It is a deliberate choice that can make your photos more impactful, artistic and memorable. If you want to improve your photography skills and express your vision more clearly, try black-and-white photography.


    References

    [1] Cox, S. (2019). Complete Guide to Black and White Photography. Retrieved from https://photographylife.com/black-and-white-photography

    [2] Kindervater, D. (n.d.). Black And White Photography: A Beginner’s Guide. https://photographypro.com/black-and-white-photography/

    [3] Digital Camera World (2021). Black and white photography: how to see and shoot in memorable monochrome. https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/tutorials/black-and-white-photography-how-to-see-and-shoot-in-memorable-monochrome